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All you need to know about Steven Hale and the world of watches

Modern vs Vintage Watch Servicing at SHWR: Key Differences Explained

1. Age Categories & Terminology

At SHWR, the firm clearly distinguishes between:

  • Modern watches: typically those less than 20 years old
  • Classic watches: between approximately 20 and 40 years old
  • Vintage watches: generally over 40 years old, although usage and condition also matter

This age-based classification is essential, because theservicing approach, timings, potential parts sourcing and handling all differ significantly between these categories.

2. Turnaround Time & Waiting Lists

Modern Watches (under 20 years old)

  • Standard full service: 4–6 weeks
  • Express Service (if part availability and scheduling allow): 2–4 weeks

Vintage Watches

  • Standard full service/restoration: 4–6 months – reflecting an extensive waiting list and the bespoke nature of each case
  • Express vintage restoration: 6–8 weeks, if urgent and parts are available

The stark contrast—weeks vs. months—reflects the complexities of sourcing or fabricating rare parts, sensitive component handling, and specialist craftsmanship intrinsic to vintage pieces.

3. Cost Structure & Estimates

Modern Watches

  • Estimates are free, covering most luxury brands under 20 years old

Vintage / Classic Watches

  • Estimate fee £75 + VAT, fully redeemable against the cost of any work if you proceed. If declined, the £75 plus postage remains payable
  • Base costs for full service typically start from £350 to £450 + VAT, depending on the brand (e.g. £375 for Omega, £450 for Rolex, £400 for Tag Heuer, £350 for Cartier, etc.)

So while modern pieces benefit from complimentary evaluation, vintage watches require an upfront investment just to assess their condition thoroughly.

4. Scope of Work: Full Service vs Specific Repairs

Full Service (Both Modern & Vintage)

At SHWR, the full service includes:

  1. Initial inspection and diagnostics
  2. Complete disassembly of movement, case, bracelet
  3. Ultrasonic cleaning of every component
  4. Replacement of worn or damaged parts with genuine brand parts or period‑correct substitutions
  5. Precision lubrication with manufacturer‑specified oils
  6. Regulation and timing across multiple positions
  7. Polishing of case/bracelet (optional; performed with care so as not to devalue vintage pieces)
  8. Final quality control including water‑resistance testing and two‑year guarantee

Quick Repairs / Isolated Work

Applicable mostly to modern watches or vintage piecesalready recently serviced:

  • Battery replacements (with reseal and pressure test, for quartz)
  • Crystal/glass replacement with exact or bespoke style
  • Crown and stem repair or replacement
  • Bracelet/strap resizing or clasp repairs
  • Localised cosmetic repair without mechanical overhaul
  • Pressure testing only if affected by the repair

Quick fixes tend to take a few working days and are only offered where the issue is clearly confined and the movement is otherwise healthy.

5. Approach to Modern vs Vintage Movement Service

Modern Movements

  • Benefit from advanced lubrication, more robust materials and tighter engineering tolerances
  • Can often run reliably for longer between services (3–5 years recommended)
  • Full servicing can be more efficient: parts are more available; timings simpler; standardised

Vintage Movements

  • Require bespoke handling: older oils tend to have degraded, critical tolerances altered, and parts may show wear or corrosion
  • Difficulties sourcing obsolete parts mean SHWR may need to fabricate components or carefully refurbish originals in‑house
  • Techniques such as enamel dial restoration, chronograph re‑lume, or case‑trim restoration demand historically informed craftsmanship
  • Each vintage watch is unique therefore no two restorations follow identical workflow

From Reddit horology enthusiasts to Revolution Watch, thebroader consensus is that vintage repair requires a different skill set—more patience, more craftsmanship, and greater respect for historical authenticity.

6. Parts Sourcing & Authenticity

  • Modern watches: SHWR typically sources genuine, manufacturer‑approved parts directly through brand‑authorised supply chains
  • Vintage watches: when genuine parts are no longer available, they either fabricate parts to original spec or use period‑correct substitutes, with full     transparency to the client

This commitment ensures authenticity, performance, and value retention—a critical concern among collectors.

7. Polishing & Cosmetic Restoration

  • Modern pieces: SHWR includes optional polishing as part of a full service at no extra cost (usually 7–10 days turnaround)
  • Vintage pieces: SHWR will typically recommend against polishing where it may reduce originality or collector value. It's offered only if the client explicitly requests it and it's sympathetically executed

That sensitivity is a hallmark of their approach—to preserve lines, bevels, patina and historical charm.

8. Diagnostic Testing & Guarantees

Diagnostics pre‑ and post‑service

Every watch receives:

  • Timing graph (beat error, amplitude, rate variation)
  • Water‑resistance check (dry and wet)
  • Demagnetisation if required
  • Documentation including before-and-after graphs and photographs

Warranty

  • Full mechanical servicing (modern and vintage) comes with a two‑year guarantee as standard
  • Specific smaller repairs (like battery or crystal) may have different terms depending on scope

9. Expertise, Reputation & Accreditation

  • SHWR is Rolex‑accredited and works with other top brands (Omega, Cartier, Tag Heuer, Tudor, Zenith, etc.)
  • Their team holds certifications such as BHI and WOSTEP, and brand‑specific training credentials
  • Recognised in the UK watch community as a top independent for vintage restoration—praised in forums, Chronoexpert and Reddit for handling vintage JLC, vintage Rolex, and rare movements with care

Their standing reflects both technical skill and areputation for honesty, transparency, and preservation.

10. Communication & Client Experience

  • For vintage watches, SHWR sends a detailed quote after initial evaluation (including condition report, parts needed, costs, estimated timelines) before proceeding; clients must approve before any irreversible work begins
  • Clients receive regular updates, and can track progress—especially important when a restoration may take months
  • Free postage pack is offered for UK clients, making shipping in watches safe and insured (£30 + VAT applies if they return via post)

High‑end care goes hand in hand with high‑end customer service: transparency, respect, and pace set by the owner.

11. Why These Differences Matter

  • Vintage watches demand patience and trust: long lead times, bespoke workmanship, and the risk of irreversible changes make choosing the right workshop vital. SHWR’s reputation shows they understand that stewardship matters more than quick fixes.
  • Modern watches benefit from efficiency: streamlined parts supply, newer lubrication tech and predictable maintenance intervals make full servicing more routine and less disruptive.
  • Collector value vs daily wear: while a modern timepiece may be treated more casually, vintage pieces are often of emotional or investment importance—requiring specialist treatment to preserve originality.

13. Real‑World Context and Community Views

In Reddit and watch forums, collectors emphasise:

“Vintage pieces are different, but many modern new watches can go much longer without servicing due to improvements in the movements themselves and also improvements in watch oil...”

Meanwhile, SHWR is regularly praised:

  • On Omega forums: “Steven Hale (SHWR)… a phenomenal job on my vintage JLC.”
  • Chronoexpert, June 2025: “renowned for vintage restoration, combining traditional techniques with modern tools” chronoexpert.co.uk

14. Final Thoughts

In summary, SHWR handles vintage and modern watch servicing on fundamentally different terms—from quoting and timeline to parts sourcing, polishing, regulatory precision, and client communication. Modern watches follow a tight, efficient process: free estimate, 4–6‑week turnaround, manufacturer parts, optional polish, and fast return. Vintage watches demand upfront assessment, longer wait times, bespoke part fabrication, cautious polishing (often avoided), and personalised correspondence—all to preserve history, patina, and performance.

Whether you’re entrusting SHWR with a daily-wear Rolex Submariner from 2010 or a cherished heirloom from the 1950s, you’re choosing a workshop that adjusts its entire process to match the watch’s age, provenance and purpose. At every stage, modern efficiency is balanced against vintage reverence—and that is what distinguishes SHWR’s approach to watch servicing.

Contact us now on 0208 088 6439 or email us at enquiries@shwr.co.uk

Contact us now on 0208 088 6439 or email us at enquiries@shwr.co.uk

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