In the intricate world of watch repair and restoration, one principle stands above the rest: the use of genuine, original parts. At Steven Hale Watch Restoration (SHWR), we adhere strictly to this standard. Whether servicing a contemporary Rolex, a vintage Omega, or a rare Patek Philippe, we believe that authenticity, performance, and longevity are only achievable when genuine parts are used.

In this article, we’ll explore why genuine components are critical to proper watch function, how non-original parts can compromise value and performance, and how SHWR ensures your watch is fitted only with authentic components — no matter how old, rare, or complex the timepiece.

What Are Genuine Watch Parts?

Genuine parts are components manufactured either directly by the watch brand or by authorised suppliers to original equipment manufacturer (OEM) standards. These include:

• Mainsprings, gears, and escapement parts

• Crystals and bezels

• Screws, crowns, pushers, and case tubes

• Dials, hands, and markers

• Seals, gaskets, and clasps

• Bracelets and straps designed to fit specific case profiles

These components are made to exact specifications, tolerances, and materials set by the original manufacturer. They ensure a watch performs exactly as intended — both mechanically and aesthetically.

Why Using Genuine Parts Matters

1. Precision Engineering and Compatibility

Mechanical watches are marvels of engineering, with parts often measured in hundredths of a millimetre. Using parts that don’t precisely match these tolerances, even slightly, can:

• Cause increased wear to other components

• Throw off timekeeping accuracy

• Prevent proper assembly or fitting

• Create friction or gaps, affecting water resistance

At SHWR, we routinely see issues where aftermarket or incorrect parts have caused malfunctions, especially in escapements, balance assemblies, or winding mechanisms. Genuine parts ensure flawless compatibility and performance.

2. Preserving Value and Authenticity

For luxury or vintage watches, originality is essential. Collectors, auction houses, and brands themselves often reject or devalue watches fitted with non-original parts — even if they appear identical on the surface.

Watches with full sets of genuine parts command higher resale values, especially models from brands like Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Jaeger-LeCoultre. At SHWR, our restorations are carefully documented to preserve provenance and market value — a vital concern for collectors and enthusiasts.

3. Aesthetics and Historical Integrity

Using non-original parts can affect a watch’s design and visual identity. For example:

• An aftermarket dial may have incorrect fonts, printing, or lume colour

• A third-party bezel insert may not match the watch’s original tone or scale

• Non-genuine hands may be slightly thicker or shaped differently

These discrepancies detract from the piece’s heritage and appearance, and may also be spotted by discerning buyers or experts. SHWR’s commitment to sourcing period-correct, genuine parts maintains both the visual harmony and historical value of every piece we restore.

4. Reliability and Longevity

Aftermarket components are often manufactured with cost in mind, using inferior metals, finishing techniques, or design shortcuts. While they may function temporarily, they rarely meet durability standards required for everyday wear or long-term preservation.

Using genuine parts ensures:

• Correct alloys that resist corrosion

• Properly tempered mainsprings that last for decades

• Durable synthetic rubies in bearings

• Correct surface finishes that maintain water resistance

By using genuine components, SHWR guarantees the long-term reliability and robustness of your watch.

SHWR’s Sourcing and Authentication Process

Finding genuine parts isn’t always easy, especially for rare or discontinued models. But SHWR is uniquely positioned to source, verify, and fit original parts for a wide range of watches — from early 20th-century pocket watches to contemporary Swiss icons.

1. Brand Partnerships and Authorised Access

We maintain relationships with authorised suppliers and service centres, allowing us to obtain genuine parts directly from manufacturers when available. This includes brands like Omega, Longines, and many more.

2. In-House Parts Inventory

Our workshop contains a vast archive of original parts, built up over decades, including rare vintage components. We catalogue and track each part by brand, model, reference, and age, ensuring period-correct authenticity during restorations.

3. Custom Fabrication When Necessary

If an original part is unobtainable, SHWR can handcraft replacements to OEM specifications using traditional watchmaking methods. This includes gears, pinions, bridges, and even hands — all made with respect to the watch’s age, function, and brand design language.

These parts are never generic; they are engineered to match original dimensions, materials, and finishes, and are always clearly documented as handmade restorations — not factory parts passed off as original.

4. Microscopic Inspection and Testing

All components — whether original or remanufactured — are inspected under microscopes and tested for:

• Fit and tolerances

• Surface finish

• Magnetic properties

• Water resistance (in seals or gaskets)

Nothing is installed without verifying it meets or exceeds original brand standards.

Examples from the SHWR Workshop

Rolex Submariner 1680 (1970s)

A client requested a full restoration, but prior work had left the watch with a non-original bezel insert and aftermarket crown. SHWR sourced an original Rolex crown tube, vintage-correct tritium-style insert, and restored the dial without reluming it. The result was both authentic and historically accurate, increasing the watch’s value significantly.

Vintage Omega Constellation Pie Pan

Another watch came to us with incorrect hands and a modern replacement crystal. Our team sourced genuine dauphine hands and a vintage Omega-signed crystal from our archive. The watch was returned to its original specification and elegance.

Why Some Watchmakers Cut Corners

Unfortunately, not all workshops follow SHWR’s commitment to authenticity. The use of aftermarket or “generic” parts is often justified on cost grounds or to speed up repairs. While this may suit budget repairs or obscure models, it poses several risks:

• Reduced performance and lifespan

• Invalidated warranties

• Devaluation of collector’s items

• Ethical concerns around misrepresentation

SHWR never substitutes genuine parts unless absolutely necessary — and when we do, it is fully disclosed to the client with documentation and clear reasoning.

The SHWR Promise

• Only genuine or custom-fabricated parts

• Full transparency and documentation

• Period-correct sourcing for vintage models

• No shortcuts, no compromises

Our commitment to using genuine parts isn’t just a standard — it’s a principle. We treat every watch as if it were our own, understanding that for many clients, these pieces carry history, emotion, and value that far exceed their monetary worth.

Conclusion: Integrity in Every Tick

Using genuine parts in watch repair is more than a matter of correctness — it’s a matter of craft, ethics, and respect for horology. At SHWR, we go to extraordinary lengths to preserve the identity, value, and performance of every timepiece we service.

Whether your watch is a treasured heirloom or a high-performance chronometer, trust SHWR to uphold its integrity — down to the smallest screw or spring.

Have a question about the originality of your watch? Contact us today for a professional inspection and let SHWR show you what genuine craftsmanship really means.