Vintage watches are more than just mechanical objects — they are windows into the design, engineering, and culture of their time. Whether inherited, purchased, or collected, vintage watches often carry emotional, historical, and financial value. But as with any item of age, they may need restoration to function properly and look their best.

However, not all restoration is created equal. A poorly restored vintage watch can lose its value, character, and even functionality. On the other hand, a properly restored watch preserves its heritage while ensuring reliability for years to come.

At Steven Hale Watch Restoration (SHWR), we specialise in sympathetic restorations — carefully balancing originality with mechanical soundness. This article will help you understand the signs of a quality vintage watch restoration, and how to avoid common pitfalls when evaluating a timepiece.

What Does “Proper Restoration” Mean in Watchmaking?

Restoration involves bringing a vintage watch as close as possible to its original intended condition, both mechanically and cosmetically, using historically accurate methods and materials. Proper restoration does not mean making a watch look brand new — rather, it involves:

• Retaining authentic components where possible

• Replacing or fabricating parts only when absolutely necessary

• Respecting the age and character of the watch

• Ensuring full mechanical function without compromising originality

Why Restoration Matters

Vintage watches often suffer from wear and tear, water ingress, dried lubricants, or even amateur repairs. A proper restoration ensures:

• Accurate timekeeping and safe wear

• Increased lifespan of original components

• Preservation of collector value

• Avoidance of irreversible damage

That said, over-restoring or replacing original elements without care can devalue the watch significantly, especially in collector circles.

How to Tell if a Vintage Watch Has Been Properly Restored

Below are the key areas to inspect when evaluating a restored vintage watch:

1. The Dial: Is It Original or Refinished?

The dial is the most visually important and valuable component of a vintage watch. Original dials — even if they show signs of ageing — are far more desirable than repainted or replaced ones.

Signs of a properly preserved dial:

• Consistent patina (ageing of lume or lacquer)

• Intact original printing (brand logo, markers, minute tracks)

• Matching lume colour between hands and indices

• No artificial gloss or brightening

Red flags:

• Uneven or too-bright colours

• Incorrect font or layout

• Blurry printing

• Perfectly white lume on an otherwise aged watch

At SHWR, we often clean dials carefully without repainting. In some cases, we advise against any cosmetic restoration if the dial has strong collector appeal in its current state.

2. The Case: Has It Been Over-Polished?

Vintage cases naturally accumulate scratches and wear. Proper restoration means cleaning and lightly refinishing the case without removing its original shape or bevels.

A correctly restored case should:

• Retain original lugs and chamfers (edges)

• Have crisp case lines and correct proportions

• Show a natural surface texture (e.g. brushed, polished, matte)

Over-polishing signs:

• Rounded lug tips

• Softened edges

• Faded engravings or serial numbers

• Case shape no longer matches original design

At SHWR, we take a conservative approach to case refinishing — often choosing to retain minor marks to preserve originality.

3. The Movement: Has It Been Professionally Serviced?

A key indicator of proper restoration is the condition of the movement — the watch's engine. A serviced vintage movement should be:

• Cleaned, reassembled, and lubricated

• Running accurately within a reasonable margin

• Free from visible rust or residue

• Fitted with period-correct components

What to look for:

• Smooth winding and setting

• Clean, sharp screw slots (no stripping or gouging)

• Consistent ticking without erratic sounds

• Service history records, ideally with dates and watchmaker details

SHWR provides detailed service reports with every restoration, including timekeeping results, component replacements, and pressure testing if applicable.

4. The Hands and Crystal: Are They Original or Replacements?

The hands and crystal are often replaced during restoration, especially if damaged. That’s acceptable — but only if done in keeping with the watch's period style.

Quality restoration includes:

• Hands matched to dial lume (colour, age, tone)

• Crystal shape and profile matching the original (acrylic vs sapphire)

• No obvious glue residue or fitment issues

Watch out for:

• Hands that look too modern or poorly sized

• High-domed or flat crystals that don’t match vintage specs

• Replacement hands with no ageing to match the dial

In many SHWR restorations, we preserve original hands when possible or age-match replacements for visual continuity.

5. The Crown and Pushers: Are They Correct?

The crown is frequently replaced in vintage watches — especially on waterproof models. While functional crowns are essential, incorrect types can affect both value and water resistance.

What to look for:

• Signed crowns from the correct brand and era

• Pushers with correct dimensions and knurling

• Smooth operation without looseness

Red flags:

• Oversized, generic, or unsigned crowns

• Pushers that rattle or appear mismatched

When sourcing replacement crowns, SHWR always prioritises OEM (original equipment manufacturer) parts or appropriate vintage replacements.

6. The Strap or Bracelet: Quality and Fit

While straps are easily changed and don’t usually affect value, a poorly matched bracelet or strap can diminish the visual integrity of a restoration.

Well-restored watches often feature:

• High-quality leather straps or period-correct bracelets

• Correct end-link fitment

• Genuine brand-signed buckles, where appropriate

Avoid low-quality aftermarket bracelets or straps that do not complement the watch’s age or character.

Ask for Documentation

A reputable restorer will always be happy to share:

• Before and after photos

• List of parts replaced

• Timekeeping results (in seconds per day)

• Pressure test (for waterproof cases)

• Invoices or authentication certificates

At SHWR, every restored watch is documented in detail, and clients receive a report summarising the work performed. This transparency is key to trust — and resale value.

Should Every Vintage Watch Be Restored?

Not necessarily. Some vintage pieces — especially rare models — may be best left untouched. Collectors often prize watches with “honest” wear and natural patina. In such cases, SHWR may recommend:

• A movement-only service

• Case cleaning without refinishing

• No dial restoration (especially for tropical or spider dials)

The decision depends on whether you want to wear the watch, display it, or maintain it as an investment.

Why SHWR Takes a Sympathetic Approach

At Steven Hale Watch Restoration, our philosophy is simple: preserve as much as possible, restore only what is necessary. Every watch is assessed individually, with consideration for:

• Its rarity and collectibility

• Client goals (wear, sell, display, inherit)

• Availability of authentic components

Our team includes master watchmakers, case refinishers, and dial specialists — all dedicated to maintaining historical accuracy. When original parts aren’t available, we can fabricate replacements to original specifications and clearly document them.

Conclusion: Restoration with Respect

A properly restored vintage watch doesn’t just tell the time — it tells a story. From its original purpose to its careful preservation, every detail matters. If you’re considering buying or restoring a vintage timepiece, take the time to assess the work with a critical eye.

Look for originality, quality workmanship, proper documentation, and signs of sympathetic care. These are the hallmarks of a watch that has been lovingly and properly restored.

At SHWR, we treat every restoration as a guardianship of history. If you have a vintage watch in need of attention — or want an expert opinion on one you’re considering — contact us today. We’re here to ensure your watch’s legacy endures.