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In the world of luxury and vintage horology, precision is everything. At SHWR (Steven Hale Watch Restoration), excellence depends not just on expert hands, but on the calibre of tools those hands work with. From delicate screwdrivers to timing machines and ultrasonic cleaning systems, every instrument contributes to the accuracy, reliability, and beauty of the finished timepiece. This article explores how SHWR employs highly specialised tools and why precision tooling is critical to the restoration and servicing process.
SHWR’s dedicated workshop is a purpose-built facility designed to meet the exacting standards of both vintage restoration and modern horology. Spanning approximately 2,500 square feet, it is laid out to accommodate the full range of mechanical watch servicing tasks — from disassembly and cleaning to polishing and water resistance testing.
The environment itself plays a role in precision. Stable temperature and humidity, bright and balanced lighting, and a dust-controlled setting are essential. Even minor environmental variations can influence the behaviour of lubricants, metal components, or delicate materials like dial varnishes and gaskets. By controlling these conditions, SHWR ensures that their highly precise tools can function to their full potential.
Inspection is the foundation of all restoration. SHWR uses high-powered stereo microscopes and loupes to examine components such as pivots, jewels, gear teeth, and escapements. These tools help identify micro-fractures, corrosion, wear patterns, and misalignments that would be invisible to the naked eye.
Some microscope systems include integrated cameras, allowing for documentation and even customer reporting. The use of high-definition magnification ensures that no flaw or imperfection escapes notice.
It may seem simple, but the quality of a screwdriver is critical in watchmaking. SHWR’s technicians use precision-machined screwdriver sets that are perfectly sized to the specific screws in each calibre. These are often manufactured with hardened, anti-magnetic steel and feature rotating caps for controlled torque.
Alongside screwdrivers, watchmakers use a variety of tweezers, pliers, movement holders, and tools for placing, lifting, and aligning components. Each is designed with balance, ergonomics, and tip geometry to allow the utmost control during handling.
To avoid damage during servicing, movements must be held securely but gently. Custom-fitted movement holders allow SHWR technicians to access different parts of the calibre without stressing plates or bridges. Special jigs may be used to ensure the alignment of components such as calendar disks or chronograph wheels during assembly.
Precision alignment tools are also essential for dial feet, hand setting, and regulating balance wheels.
Before reassembly, every movement is cleaned using multi-stage ultrasonic cleaning machines. These devices use sound waves to agitate cleaning fluids, removing old lubricants, dirt, and microscopic debris from every surface.
Precision is vital here — the cleaning process must be effective without damaging fragile parts or coatings. The machines allow technicians to clean parts in isolated baskets to prevent contact damage and ensure each piece is treated correctly.
Lubrication is a science in itself. SHWR uses specially designed oiling tools that allow for micro-doses of lubricants to be placed precisely where needed. Capillary oilers, automatic dispensers, and time/temperature-controlled lubrication stations all support accurate and consistent application.
Incorrect oiling — too much or too little — can drastically affect the accuracy and longevity of a watch. SHWR’s equipment ensures that only the right amount is applied, in the right place, every time.
Once assembled, the movement is tested for rate (how fast or slow it runs), amplitude (how far the balance swings), and beat error (the symmetry of tick and tock). High-precision timing machines simulate various positions — dial up, crown down, etc. — to assess the watch’s stability.
For chronographs and automatic watches, machines can simulate real-world conditions, including the running of complications or changes in temperature. SHWR uses this data to regulate the watch as closely as possible to its factory specifications.
Case refinishing requires as much precision as movement work. SHWR’s polishing stations are equipped with variable-speed buffing wheels, lapping machines for flat surfaces, and brushing tools for satin finishes.
Precision is essential to maintain case lines, bevels, and hallmarks. Over-polishing can ruin the geometry and value of a watch. SHWR's trained polishers work with templates and micrometres to ensure material removal is minimal and symmetrical.
Water resistance is a critical feature of many watches. SHWR uses dry and wet pressure testing machines to assess a watch's seal integrity. These machines apply controlled air or water pressure to detect leaks through crowns, pushers, case backs, and crystals.
Because pressure testing is highly sensitive, the calibration and cleanliness of the equipment are closely monitored. Results are recorded and analysed before any watch is returned to the customer.
As an authorised service provider for brands such as Rolex, Omega, Cartier, TAG Heuer, and others, SHWR must use brand-specific tools. These tools are often designed to perform unique tasks — such as opening a proprietary case back, fitting a specific crown system, or adjusting a brand-specific escapement.
Access to these tools ensures the work meets factory standards and doesn’t compromise the structure or water resistance of the watch.
Precision tools are only effective when properly maintained. SHWR follows strict schedules for the calibration and inspection of all equipment. This includes:
Because SHWR is held to the standards of the brands they are authorised to service, compliance with tool specifications and workshop conditions is essential.
The use of precise timing, lubrication, and adjustment tools allows SHWR to return watches that run as close to chronometer standards as possible, even if the watch itself is not COSC certified.
Well-fitted components wear less. Accurate part alignment and correct lubrication reduce internal friction and extend the life of the movement.
For vintage and collectable watches, maintaining original surfaces, parts, and tolerances preserves long-term value. Using improper tools can cause irreversible damage or diminish the watch’s provenance.
A watch serviced with the proper tools is far less likely to suffer issues post-service. Chronograph reset problems, erratic timekeeping, water ingress, and hand misalignment are all largely avoidable with the correct procedures and tooling.
No matter how advanced the tooling, watchmakers still face some universal challenges:
At SHWR, precision tools are not a luxury — they are a necessity. Every screwdriver, microscope, cleaning bath, and pressure tester plays a role in delivering high-quality restoration and servicing to the most exacting standards. But tools alone are not enough. What elevates SHWR is their combination of excellent equipment, properly maintained environments, and a team of skilled professionals who understand how to use those tools with accuracy, care, and respect.
The result? Watches that not only look impeccable but function with the same elegance and precision they did when they first left the factory — sometimes decades ago.