Servicing a chronograph watch is more involved than maintaining a standard time-only piece. Chronographs contain additional complications — pushers, cams, levers, extra hands, and often supplementary gearing — so precision, parts availability, expertise, and patience are all essential. If you take your chronograph to SHWR (Steven Hale Watch Restoration), here’s what you need to know: what the process involves, what to expect in terms of cost and time, and how to ensure your watch is properly cared for.

Who Is SHWR

Steven Hale Watch Restoration (SHWR) is a highly respected UK-based workshop that is authorised to service many prestigious watch brands, including Rolex, Omega, Cartier, TAG Heuer, Tudor, and Zenith. They work on both vintage and modern timepieces and offer a range of services including full mechanical servicing, restoration, polishing, case and bracelet refurbishing, and dial refinishing.

Their expertise makes them particularly suited to handle the complex mechanisms of chronograph watches. SHWR operates a London showroom and has a dedicated workshop in Watford, providing professional care with high standards of craftsmanship.

What Servicing a Chronograph Means

A chronograph watch requires more than just cleaning and regulation. The presence of a chronograph complication introduces extra parts and potential failure points, all of which must be expertly handled. Here’s what a comprehensive chronograph service entails:

1. Initial Assessment

The service begins with a thorough evaluation. SHWR will assess the watch’s condition, functional issues (such as chronograph hands not resetting correctly), cosmetic wear, and any specific concerns you may have as the owner.

2. Full Disassembly

The watch is completely dismantled. This includes the base movement, the chronograph module (including levers, clutches, and reset mechanisms), pushers, seals, case components, and hands. Each part is carefully removed and documented.

3. Ultrasonic Cleaning & Inspection

All parts are placed in ultrasonic cleaners to remove old oils, dust, and residue. This step ensures that each component is as clean as possible before inspection. After cleaning, every piece is examined under magnification for signs of wear or damage.

4. Replacement of Worn or Damaged Parts

Parts showing wear, corrosion, or fatigue — especially within the chronograph mechanism — are replaced. For vintage watches, SHWR may source period-correct components or fabricate replacements where necessary. Gaskets and seals are typically renewed as part of every service.

5. Reassembly & Lubrication

Once all parts are clean and checked, the watch is reassembled with precise application of lubricants. Chronograph mechanisms require specialist lubricants in exact amounts to function correctly. Poor lubrication in a chronograph can lead to sluggish pushers, improper resets, or even damage.

6. Regulation & Timing

The movement is then regulated to ensure accurate timekeeping. Chronographs add extra load to the gear train when running, so SHWR tests the watch with the chronograph engaged and disengaged. They assess amplitude, beat rate, and accuracy across multiple positions.

7. Water Resistance Testing

All watches with water-resistance ratings are resealed and tested. Chronograph pushers, in particular, are vulnerable points for water ingress. New seals are fitted to crowns, case backs, and pushers, followed by pressure tests to ensure the case integrity is restored.

8. Final Quality Control

A full function test ensures the chronograph starts, stops, and resets correctly. The watch is monitored over several days to confirm performance. External appearance is also reviewed — cases may be polished or left unpolished depending on your preference.

What to Expect from SHWR: Cost, Time, Turnaround

Because chronograph movements are more complex than regular movements, they typically incur higher servicing costs and longer turnaround times.

• Cost: Basic servicing for mechanical watches at SHWR begins at approximately £400 plus VAT. Chronographs, due to their additional parts and labour, generally cost more. Vintage watches over 20 years old may also require a charge for an initial assessment to generate an accurate quote.
• Turnaround Time: For modern chronographs with parts readily available, the typical servicing time can be a few weeks. For vintage models or those requiring rare parts, the process may extend to several months. SHWR keeps clients informed throughout the process and provides a postage pack for safe delivery of your watch to their workshop.
• Warranty: SHWR provides a service guarantee, covering the work done and the parts replaced. The exact length of the guarantee can vary depending on the watch brand and scope of work.

What You as the Owner Should Do

To ensure the best results from your chronograph service, it helps to be prepared and informed:

Know Your Watch’s Details

Provide the brand, model, approximate age, and any known service history. Mention specific problems, such as sticking pushers or hands that don’t reset to zero.

Preserve Originality

If your chronograph is vintage, consider whether you want polishing or restoration. Some collectors prefer to maintain the original patina. SHWR is sensitive to this and will follow your instructions closely.

Understand the Limits of Parts Availability

Some vintage chronographs have discontinued parts. SHWR can often source vintage stock or manufacture replacements, but this may affect cost and lead time.

Regular Service Intervals

Chronographs should be serviced every 3–5 years even if they appear to be working fine. This prevents wear from dried oils or dust and extends the watch’s life.

Post-Service Checks

After receiving your serviced watch, test all functions: chronograph start/stop/reset, winding, power reserve, and (if applicable) water resistance. Keep service paperwork for your records and for insurance purposes.

Special Considerations with Chronograph Movements

Chronographs include unique components that need extra care:

• Reset Mechanism: Chronograph hands return to zero using hammers and cams. These need to be perfectly aligned. A common issue is the second or minute hand not resetting precisely.
• Clutch Systems: Chronographs use horizontal or vertical clutch systems to engage the chronograph seconds. These must be correctly lubricated to avoid stutter or slippage.
• Pushers and Seals: Push-buttons often contain springs and gaskets. These wear over time and can allow water in if not replaced during service.
• Load on Movement: Running the chronograph increases wear on the base movement. Frequent use without regular service can accelerate damage.

Potential Pitfalls to Avoid

Even with a top-tier service centre, it helps to be aware of the following:

• Over-Polishing: Avoid excessive polishing of vintage watches as it can blur case lines or reduce value.
• Aftermarket Parts: Using non-original parts might reduce authenticity and water resistance. SHWR prioritises genuine parts.
• Improper Lubrication: Chronographs are more sensitive to incorrect oiling than standard watches. SHWR’s accredited technicians follow strict guidelines.
• Water Resistance Failure: If chronograph pushers or gaskets are not correctly fitted, water may still enter the watch. This is especially dangerous for vintage pieces.
• Unrealistic Expectations: Vintage watches, even after service, may not keep quartz-like time or be completely waterproof. SHWR will advise on realistic performance.

Why Servicing a Chronograph Is Worth It

Despite the higher cost and longer process, servicing your chronograph watch with SHWR ensures:

• Accurate timekeeping and proper chronograph function
• Prevention of serious mechanical issues
• Preserved value, both financial and sentimental
• Reliable operation for everyday or occasional use

Whether your chronograph is a modern luxury piece or a cherished vintage model, professional servicing by SHWR maintains its integrity and performance for years to come.