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Rolex is arguably the most recognisable and revered name in the world of watchmaking. Founded in 1905, the company has built a reputation not only for luxury and prestige but also for innovation, precision, and enduring quality. Over more than a century, Rolex has evolved from a pioneering wristwatch company to a global symbol of success and craftsmanship.
This article explores how Rolex has transformed through each decade — from its early days in London to its modern-day status as a cultural and horological icon.
Rolex was founded in 1905 by Hans Wilsdorf and Alfred Davis in London under the name Wilsdorf & Davis. Their goal was to produce high-quality wristwatches at a time when pocket watches were the norm. Wilsdorf understood that for wristwatches to gain acceptance, they needed to be accurate, durable, and stylish.
In 1908, the brand name "Rolex" was officially registered. The name was chosen for its easy pronunciation in many languages and its short, symmetrical appearance on a dial. Rolex also moved its headquarters to Switzerland — the centre of fine watchmaking — in search of better movement suppliers.
In 1910, a Rolex wristwatch became the first of its kind to receive a Swiss Certificate of Chronometric Precision, awarded by the Official Watch Rating Centre in Bienne. Four years later, a Rolex watch received a Class A certificate from the Kew Observatory in England, a rating previously reserved only for marine chronometers.
These achievements established Rolex as a serious player in precision timekeeping — a distinction that would underpin the brand's reputation for decades to come.
One of Rolex's greatest innovations arrived in 1926 with the launch of the Rolex Oyster, the world's first waterproof wristwatch. The Oyster featured a patented case design with a screw-down bezel, case back, and winding crown, creating an airtight seal.
To prove its effectiveness, Rolex gave the watch to Mercedes Gleitze, who wore it during her swim across the English Channel in 1927. After over ten hours in the water, the watch emerged in perfect working order — a marketing triumph that made headlines and cemented the Oyster as a breakthrough in watch durability.
In 1931, Rolex introduced another major innovation: the Perpetual rotor, a self-winding mechanism that used the motion of the wearer’s wrist to wind the mainspring. This was the birth of the modern automatic watch.
Combined with the waterproof Oyster case, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual became the blueprint for the modern wristwatch: accurate, automatic, and sealed against dust and water. By the end of the decade, Rolex was producing watches that appealed not only to professionals and adventurers but also to the growing middle class.
During the 1940s, Rolex solidified its identity. While much of Europe was engulfed in World War II, Rolex watches became sought after by military officers for their reliability. Founder Hans Wilsdorf even arranged for Rolex watches to be sent to Allied prisoners of war with payment deferred until after the war — an act that built enduring loyalty.
After the war, Rolex turned its attention to refining its existing models. The brand began using higher-quality materials, adjusting its case designs, and increasing production. It was during this time that Rolex developed the design language that continues to define it today: robustness, clarity, and elegance.
The 1950s marked a golden age of innovation for Rolex, particularly with the introduction of tool watches designed for specific professions and activities.
These tool watches became iconic not only for their function but for their aesthetics — and many remain part of the Rolex catalogue today.
In the 1960s, Rolex watches began appearing more frequently on the wrists of celebrities, world leaders, and cultural icons. Paul Newman’s Daytona, James Bond’s Submariner, and the Datejust on the wrists of presidents all helped cement Rolex’s status as a symbol of style and success.
Rolex also continued pushing technical limits. In 1960, a specially made Deep Sea Special was attached to the Trieste bathyscaphe during its descent to the bottom of the Mariana Trench — the deepest part of the ocean. The watch withstood pressures over 1,000 times that at sea level and emerged unscathed.
The 1970s saw the so-called “Quartz Crisis”, as affordable and highly accurate quartz watches from Japan threatened to topple the Swiss mechanical watch industry. Many brands pivoted to battery-powered movements, but Rolex remained largely committed to mechanical timekeeping.
Rolex did briefly explore quartz technology with models like the Oysterquartz, but the brand’s identity stayed firmly rooted in the automatic mechanical tradition. This decision helped preserve Rolex’s status in the long run, as mechanical watches regained prestige and desirability.
The 1980s saw Rolex refine its designs, increasing use of precious metals and improving movement quality. It introduced sapphire crystals across its range, improving scratch resistance. Bracelets and clasps were strengthened, and movement reliability was further enhanced.
During this time, Rolex watches increasingly became status symbols — signifiers of achievement rather than just tools. The brand’s quiet, timeless designs and consistent evolution made it a favourite of entrepreneurs, professionals, and celebrities.
By the 1990s, Rolex was one of the most recognised luxury brands in the world. The focus shifted towards improving in-house capabilities, including the production of movements, cases, and bracelets entirely within Rolex's own facilities.
Collectors began to take a stronger interest in vintage models, driving up demand for older Submariners, Daytonas, and Explorers. Rolex’s reputation for longevity and style consistency made it a leader in both the new and pre-owned markets.
In the 21st century, Rolex has doubled down on in-house manufacturing and innovation. Major advancements include:
Rolex has also maintained its exclusivity by controlling production volumes, creating strong demand and long waiting lists for many models.
The company remains a privately owned entity, overseen by the Hans Wilsdorf Foundation, allowing it to reinvest in research, manufacturing, and philanthropy.
From the first waterproof wristwatch to the modern-day Daytona and Submariner, Rolex has consistently balanced tradition with innovation. Each decade brought a new leap forward, whether in technical sophistication, design evolution, or cultural significance.
Today, owning a Rolex is more than wearing a watch — it’s participating in a legacy of craftsmanship, exploration, and achievement. And while styles may change, Rolex's core values of precision, durability, and timeless appeal continue to set the standard for the watchmaking world.